Posted By azog on February 1, 2014
Lotharek, from whom I purchased his MiST computer, has started shipping his version of the NetUSBee and I finally got my hands on one. I’ve been waiting/wanting an Atari Ethernet adapter for some time, but finding one was not easy. There were several options but most of them have been out of production for several years. The designs for the NetUSBee were released for free, but getting those designs to finished project would have been cost-prohibitive for a single-shot run.
If you’re not familiar with the NetUSBee, it’s an Ethernet and USB adapter for the Atari ST class of computers. The Lotharek version was shipped with a nice enclosure:
The front jack is the Ethernet port and behind that are two USB ports. The USB is secondary to my goals, so I have not downloaded the drivers yet but the USB ports will will be useful for using a USB mouse, as the Atari brick mouse is hideous.
So first I’ll plug the cart into the Atari Falcon and attach an Ethernet cable to my router. Pay no attention to the flat ribbon cable that runs underneath; that is the cable to attach to the ScreenBlaster video enhancer. But you can see the Ethernet link light is active, which is always a good start.
For starters, I am going to play with the TOS version of things. Later I’ll try setting up the MiNT/MultiTOS version.
Software installation was marginally straight-forward. Download the STING archive from Lotharek’s site, which contains a number of files and folders (the screenshot is from 7ZIP on my PC but the files can be transferred directly to a PC formatted floppy and read on the Falcon):
For anyone familiar with TOS, the folder structure should be familiar:
- The AUTO folder contains the TOS driver for the NetUSBee
- CPX contains the X-Control panel applets used to configure the driver
- STING contains the configuration files
There are other files but are not of immediate need. Once the files are copied to their proper location and the Falcon has been rebooted, the X-Control panel has several new applets.
Configuration is done with the STinG Port Setup. The others provide drivers for UDP, ICMP, etc, but should be OK as default. Opening STinG Port Setup let’s you choose the IP address and netmask. This screen shows a dropdown list of the other options STinG provides (Modem and LAN) which would be useful for using over a modem, such as SLIP (Serial Line IP) or PPP (Point to Point Protocol), which are the protocols we used back before Ethernet became ubiquitous. Behind the dropdown, but still visible, is the IP and netmask, 192.168.1.200/24. It is important to make sure the Active box is enabled and the configuration is saved in the STING directory as STING.PRT.
In the same applet, select the General downdown for Ethernet, and it should show you the MAC address, which indicates everything is working. Again make sure the Active box is checked. If no MAC address appears, then something else is wrong. The NetUSBee does have the MAC on-board, so there’s no need to fudge a MAC address, but rather to stop and make sure the cart is inserted properly and the driver is loaded.
If your network IP scheme differs, you’ll probably have to edit the ROUTE.TAB file in the STING directory.
Once that is done, I rebooted the Falcon, but was not able to ping it. I don’t know why, but at this point, it was getting late, so I powered everything off and picked it up the next day. When I powered it back on, ping was working as expected. The ping times are not the best, especially considering I am on the same local Ethernet, but I guess that should be expected, all things considered.
Now that I know the basic IP transport is working, it’s time to try a web browser, in this case, the CAB browser. You need an overlay for CAB, which I found here. Even tho it says STiK, it’ll work for STinG. Going back 20 years in memory, I think STiK is the predecessor to STinG. Once I downloaded and extracted the CAB archive, and copied the OVL, I had to create a cache folder in the CAB directory. When you first start CAB, it asks for this, so create the cache dir first. Otherwise if you try to browse something, it won’t work.
So open a URL, here I chose the “retro” edition on Hack-A-Day. I don’t know if they’re still accepting submissions for this, but it was appropriate, and I’ll send it to them anyways.
There’s other software to be found, like mail or ftp clients which should be useful to download stuff directly to the Falcon, rather than using floppy disks.
Posted By azog on December 26, 2013
Stumbled across this one day on comp.sys.cbm. Yes, usenet isn’t dead.
It is a very nicely machined enclosure for the Commodore Flyer modem, which until now, had been living inside the anti-stat bag it was shipped in. Apparently a one-off project by a group/person called MarchLabs. I love projects like this, and even more so when it’s something of high usefulness. I wish I could fabricate enclosures, but I lack pretty much everything necessary: the CNC for starters, and the skill to draw in a CAD program. You can see how it’s been milled.
The Flyer sits nicely inside, and a rubber boot for the reset switch:
Everything lines up:
Four rubber feet to hide the screw-holes; I doubt I’ll need access to the internals. And a transfer sticker of the Commodore chicken-lips.
Unfortunately, sold out…
Posted By azog on August 16, 2013
So is this the first web server running on a Commodore PET 4032?
Retroswitch released a new firmware for the Commodore PET Flyer Internet Modem which allows for inbound connections. So, of course, the first thing to do was was to whip up a crude web server.
The BASIC code is simplicity itself:
First, listen for a connection on port 80. A loop between lines 30 thru 60 reads the connection status (stored in variable D). When D=1, a connection is made.
Next, grab out the IP address, so I can display it both on the console and on the web page, and then spew out the raw HTML. Close the socket, and start all over again.
60 if d=0 goto 30
120 print#2,"welcome to a commodore pet 4032 web server!"
140 print#2,"<p><b>welcome to the"
150 print#2,"world's first"
160 print#2,"web server running"
170 print#2,"on a commodore pet 4032!"
180 print#2,"<p>your ip address is ";b$
200 print#2,"thank you for visiting"
Unfortunately, I cannot run this “live” for a few reasons… One, is because the PET is set up in my general work-area, which I use for a variety of purposes, and can’t really dedicate this to run full-time. Second, I’d be concerned about screen burn, but I guess I could put a cut-off switch on whatever line provides the CRT high voltage, but that’s kinda nasty.
Posted By azog on June 9, 2013
Some time ago, I picked up an interesting display module based around a Dialight driver:
There are five modules, each with a Dialight driver and 7-segment LED display. Each module is separate, and you can remove the endcaps to remove the modules. I guess you could remove modules and cut the chassis down to a smaller size, or even theoretically add modules but you’d have to embiggen the chassis. Either way, it looks like a quick/cheap method for a production house to provide a product for various customers who might require different quantities of displays.
It was easy to find the datasheet, and just as easy to match up the pins with the card edge connectors, which you can see via my handwriting on the sheet under the display module.
Not sure what, if anything, I’ll do with them. Standard TTL logic, consistent pin ordering, and what appears to be 0.156″ card edge would make it fairly simple to interface to something.
But the question is, what? I’m kinda short on ideas. The whole thing is vaguely reminiscent to the TIL311 displays I played with in the past, but I don’t know if I wanna do another clock.
Posted By azog on June 7, 2013
This is a why-not project. I felt like installing Ray Carlsen’s 1541 write protect mod, a switch to enable/disable the write protect on a 1541. It’s pretty easy, but since I have the 1541C, I got a little creative. The original photos detail a non-C version of the 1541, but it was still simple enough, taking less than 30 minutes from start to testing:
Posted By azog on May 29, 2013
This is a project that’s been kicking around for some time, and I finally got up the gumption to have another crack at it.
After building everything, I got it mounted in an enclosure that was originally an HP drive module. The GIDE mounting orientation is not going to remain as in this photograph. I have ordered some 90 degree headers so I could mount it horizontally, and be able to (hopefully) put the cover back on the whole thing.
Posted By azog on April 22, 2013
I wanted to experiment with the Commodore 64 cartridge slot, but not having a “proper” edge connector, or proto board, I broke down and drew up a simple board that I sent off to BatchPCB.
What you can’t see here (and neither can I, because I drew the traces too narrow at 6 mils) is that every row of three vias are connected. There is a power rail going down the left side, quote noticeable (gnd and vcc), but the grid layout didn’t work like I hoped… So I manually drew a marker down to visually separate the grid.
Each edge is connected to a row of two vias directly above the edge connector. They’re labeled, but again, I used too small of a font to really read them. But the upper edge connects to the closest two rows, and the lower edge connects to the third and fourth row.
This should make it easy to layout a variety of parts. For which I have an idea, being the whole point of this project, but which I’ll defer for a later post, as I strive to overcome the disappointment in myself for not thinking clearly enough while laying out the visual markings.
Given that the specs for the C64 edge connector is well know, this is nothing stupendous, but I’ve not really come across anything in this specific configuration. I’ve picked up socketed cartridge carriers, but nothing quite generic like this. I drew it in EaglePCB, so if anyone is interested, I can post the project here. Perhaps after I widen the traces and embiggen the font…
Posted By azog on February 11, 2013
I haven’t done any “real” project stuff lately, just messing around with vintage systems. So I got the urge, and decided to do something simple.
Been wanting to build an Atari Punk Console for a while, so I sat down and breadboarded one up, using a pair of 555′s rather than a 556 (because I had 555′s and did not have a 556). I wanted to make it a bit more permanent but didn’t have any really good perfboard. I could have ordered some, but by the time you add shipping, as well as associated parts, it was more cost effective to just order one of Jameco’s kits.
They’re fun and simple to build. If you’re not familiar with an APC, it’s just basically a noise maker using one of the oldest commercially available ICs, the 555. They’re hackable: you can add things like CV in, line out, etc, which is/was my plan.
But one day, I saw this thing…
It’s a “Myosone 401 EMG Monitor” by Edmund Scientific. I have no idea what it is, but the retroness of it just screamed at me. Look at it: dials, buttons, analog meter. For $10, why the heck not?
I took it apart, and it looked like a perfect fit for the Jameco APC. This is what the original thing looks like inside. The PCB is single-sided with those very 70s hand-drawn traces (which I didn’t get a picture of, but you know what I mean, right?). I dunno what the ICs are, timers or op-amps, but who cares…
It was short work to fit the Jameco APC inside.
The meter is currently not attached to anything. Not sure where to attach it. I do want it to do something, even just move up and down as you twiddle a dial. I’ll mess with that eventually.
Since it’s the thing to do, I do want to build a Baby-8 or Baby-10 sequencer. I should be able to build it inside this enclosure. But even if not, it still looks cool. At least I think so.
Posted By azog on February 10, 2013
Nothing stupendous. Just common sense. Since I added a fan to my C64, I figured why not add one to my 1541? Not much room inside the thing, so I had to mount it externally, but you work with what you have…
It’s just a repurposed fan, probably from an old CPU cooler. 12vdc, dunno what the amp rating is. I tapped off C7, the large filter cap that goes in the same orientation as the ICs. It measured 10vdc across. I looked at C8, the other large filter cap perpendicular to it, but that measured close to 20vdc.
The case of the 1541 is a good candidate for Retr0-Brite, think?